Abu Simbel

From Luxor our ship sailed to Aswan.
In Aswan itself there are a gems of a temple called Philae in an island.
But our main focus was to visit the temples of Abu Simbel on the banks of Lake Nasser, created when Aswan Dam was made

Abu Simbel temples refers to two massive rock temples in Abu Simbel in Nubia, southern Egypt on the western bank of Lake Nasser about 230 km southwest of Aswan (about 300 km by road). The complex is part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site known as the "Nubian Monuments," which run from Abu Simbel downriver to Philae (near Aswan).
We were informed that we have to go there by convoys which leave at 3am and 11 am. We opted for the latter, as getting up at unearthly hours didn't quite gel with our idea of a holiday!!

The reason for the convoys is that we pass through 200 kms of desert where there isn't a soul in sight in case car breaks down. Also there is fear of bandits waylaying the hapless tourists!

The twin temples were originally carved out of the mountainside during the reign of Pharaoh Ramesses II in the 13th century BC, as a lasting monument to himself and his queen Nefertari, to commemorate his alleged victory at the Battle of Kadesh, and to intimidate his Nubian neighbors. However, the complex was relocated in its entirety in 1968, on an artificial hill made from a domed structure, high above the Aswan High Dam reservoir.

The relocation of the temples was necessary to avoid their being submerged during the creation of Lake Nasser, the massive artificial water reservoir formed after the building of the Aswan High Dam on the Nile River.
Abu Simbel remains one of Egypt's top tourist attractions.
The front is adorned by huge statues of a sitting RamessesII. One has had its head knocked off and when it was restored to the upper area head was left in same position.Next to his leg is a smaller statue of Queen Neferteri and pride of place between the legs is occupied by the son!!

Construction of the temple complex started in approximately 1244 BCE and lasted for about 20 years, until 1224 BCE. Known as the "Temple of Ramesses, beloved by Amun," it was one of six rock temples erected in Nubia during the long reign of Ramesses II. Their purpose was to impress Egypt's southern neighbors, and also to reinforce the status of Egyptian religion in the region. Historians say that the design of Abu Simbel expresses a measure of ego and pride in Ramesses II.

With the passage of time, the temples fell into disuse and eventually became covered by sand. Already in the 6th century BC, the sand covered the statues of the main temple up to their knees. The temple was forgotten until 1813, when Swiss orientalist JL Burckhardt found the top frieze of the main temple. Burckhardt talked about his discovery with Italian explorer Giovanni Belzoni, who travelled to the site, but was unable to dig out an entry to the temple. Belzoni returned in 1817, this time succeeding in his attempt to enter the complex. He took everything valuable and portable with him. Tour guides at the site relate the legend that "Abu Simbel" was a young local boy who guided these early re-discoverers to the site of the buried temple which he had seen from time to time in the shifting sands. Eventually, they named the complex after him.

In 1959 an international donations campaign to save the monuments of Nubia began: the southernmost relics of this ancient human civilization were under threat from the rising waters of the Nile that were about to result from the construction of the Aswan High Dam.The salvage of the Abu Simbel temples began in 1964 by a multinational team of archeologists, engineers and skilled heavy equipment operators working together under the UNESCO banner; it cost some $40 million at the time. Between 1964 and 1968, the entire site was carefully cut into large blocks (up to 30 tons, averaging 20 tons), dismantled, lifted and reassembled in a new location 65 meters higher and 200 meters back from the river, in one of the greatest challenges of archaeological engineering in history.[3] Some structures were even saved from under the waters of Lake Nasser. Today, thousands of tourists visit the temples daily. Guarded convoys of buses and cars depart twice a day from Aswan, the nearest city. Many visitors also arrive by plane, at an airfield that was specially constructed for the temple complex.
In this picture you can see the mark on the leg where it was cut to bring it up!
The God RA is standing in the background.

The temple of Hathor and Nefertari, also known as the Small Temple, was built about one hundred meters northeast of the temple of Ramesses II and was dedicated to the goddess Hathor and Ramesses II's chief consort, Nefertari. This was in fact the second time in ancient Egyptian history that a temple was dedicated to a queen. The first time, Akhenaten dedicated a temple to his great royal wife, Nefertiti.Ramesses II loved his Queen Neferteri a great deal.Though even this temple has huge statues of RamessesII on the entrance. But in an age when queens were never honored it was a big step!

We were not allowed to photograph inside but there are beautiful painting depicting offerings to the Gods and Goddesses and Colums with statues of Ramesses II as God Osiris.
The center of the temple is a sanctum sanctorum.These have the statues of Rameses II ,God Ra and Amon and Ptah.
It is believed that the axis of the temple was positioned by the ancient Egyptian architects in such a way that on October 21 and February 21 (61 days before and 61 days after the Winter Solstice), the rays of the sun would penetrate the sanctuary and illuminate the sculptures on the back wall, except for the statue of Ptah, the god connected with the Underworld, who always remained in the dark.

These dates are allegedly the king's birthday and coronation day respectively, but there is no evidence to support this, though it is quite logical to assume that these dates had some relation to a great event, such as the jubilee celebrating the thirtieth anniversary of the Pharaoh's rule.
The drive back was also eventful .We saw the sun setting in the desert and it was magnificent

God's creation and Human effort side by side

We had fun chasing the sun across the desert

Trivia
The temple is the fictional field headquarters of MI6 in the 1977 James Bond film The Spy Who Loved Me, containing M's office, a conference room, and Q's laboratory.
The temple is a setting of the 1978 film Agatha Christie's Death on the Nile, where the statues "sing" because of the wind in the crevices (similar to wind blowing over a bottle).
The temple is shown in 2001's The Mummy Returns, as a way to the Oasis of Ahm-Shere.

Pharoah Hatshepsut

From the Valley of the kings we drove to the temple of Hatshepsut, the female Pharoah.
I had carried my hat and shades to the valley of the Kings, but didnt really need it as we went to the area of the tombs by a train and everything was underground after that.
When our guide took us to Hatshepsut's temple, I forgot that this was not a tomb but temple and foolishly decided why carry such cumbersome hats etc and left it in the car.
And even though we went in November the sun drained me out.
First of all there is a vey very long walk under the open sun to the temple. And it was scorching !!

But the work is worth it. Its a beautiful temple cut out from the mountain rock. The temple is on 2 levels and the lower level has various temples dedicated to the Gods and Goddesses. The walls are inscribed with lovely paintings. Though fading we can still see the glory .
The Upper level is adorned by numerous statues of Hatshepsut in her pharonic glory.
There is a small chapel right behind with a shrine.

Hatshepsut ( /hætˈʃɛpsʊt/;[3] also Hatchepsut; meaning Foremost of Noble Ladies;1508–1458 BC) was the fifth pharaoh of the eighteenth dynasty of Ancient Egypt. She is generally regarded by Egyptologists as one of the most successful pharaohs, reigning longer than any other woman of an indigenous Egyptian dynasty
She dressed as the male pharoah and assumed all of the regalia and symbols of the pharaonic office in official representations: the Khat head cloth, topped with the uraeus, the traditional false beard, and shendyt kilt

Hatshepsut established the trade networks that had been disrupted during the Hyksos occupation of Egypt during the Second Intermediate Period, thereby building the wealth of the eighteenth dynasty.

She oversaw the preparations and funding for a mission to the Land of Punt. The expedition set out in her name with five ships, each measuring 70 feet (21 m) long bearing several sails and accommodating 210 men that included sailors and 30 rowers. Many trade goods were bought in Punt, notably myrrh.

Hatshepsut was one of the most prolific builders in ancient Egypt, commissioning hundreds of construction projects throughout both Upper Egypt and Lower Egypt, that were grander and more numerous than those of any of her Middle Kingdom predecessors. Later pharaohs attempted to claim some of her projects as theirs.

She employed the great architect Ineni, who also had worked for her father, her husband, and for the royal steward Senemut. During her reign, so much statuary was produced that almost every major museum in the world has Hatshepsut statuary among their collections; for instance, the Hatshepsut Room in New York City's Metropolitan Museum of Art is dedicated solely to some of these pieces.

A moment of madness

A moment of madness in the shape of self glorification and you have spoilt years and years of glorious work.

I don't really care to know who Messrs Zagada or Craddock were, but do care that they spoilt temples made in honour of various Gods and Goddesses!
They were just humans with itchy fingers!

So what if Volpato came from Roma in 1841? Just wish he had maintained a diary instead

Sunrise in Giza-- A Story in Stone

The first thing that hits you when you reach Giza is the sense of awe.
Come on its the realisation of a dream!
You are in front of one of the greatest wonders of ancient world, still surviving.
The engineering and labour that has gne into making it , is mind boggling.
And to our joy we reached early morning and saw the sun rising, making some of the snaps my husband took look unreal!

The early morning sun also seems to be awed by the Greta Pharoah Cheops' vision and is going on a high!

Then you come to the Sphinx--- A lion with a pharoah's head.
Of course there are many stories about how the sphinx lost its nose! But it still looks grand and huge sitting there guarding the pyramids

The causeway in the funerary temple.

Trick photography done by guide. He asked me to hold upmy hand and made it look as if I was trying to rub the sphinx's non existent nose!

The Sphinx in the night lights at the sound and light show. Omar Shariff provides the voice overs. But I must confess the sound and light at Red Fort is far grander.

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LUXOR

The first thing that you see a soon a you get of the Train is the beautiful Luxor tempel.
It's just 3500 hudred years of history sanding there for you to soak in,glance over or revel in as per your inclinations.
The barque chapels, just behind the first pylon are the earliest parts of the temple which are still standing . They were built by the only woman to be a Pharoah Hatshepsut. but it was later appropriated by Tuthmosis III. The main part of the temple - the colonnade and the sun court were built by Amenhotep III, and there is a later addition by Rameses II, who built the entrance pylon, and the two obelisks, linked the Hatshepsut buildings with the main temple.One of the obelisks was taken to France, and is now at the centre of the Place de la Concorde.

To the rear of the temple are chapels built by Tuthmosis III, and Alexander. During the Roman era, the temple and its surroundings were a legionary fortress and the home of the Roman government in the area.

It was founded in 1400 BCE. and the temple was dedicated to the Theban Triad of Amun, Mut, and Chons. It was built during the New Kingdom.
At the entrance you are greeted by an obelisk and 2 huge statues of RamsesII, sitting in grandeur at the entrance of the temple.
Another thing you notce is the small chapel outside the main temple made by the Romans ,dedicated to a Goddess
There is also a huge walkway lined on both sides by sphinx which conected Luxor to Karnak Temple. Parts of this are still being excavated and can be seen in the city.

After you enter inside you see a mosque built over the ruins on the left, built bt Abdul Hagag.
Side view of mosque within temple

I was very fascinated by the mark left in Luxor temple by all the various rulers of Egypt.
It has a mosque a Roman chapel, a Coptic chapel and a barque chapel made by Alexander the great!It's carved walls show Alexander as a Pharoah.
The columns and ever present statues!

One interesting group of statues shows Tutankhamen and his wife in a sitting position.By the way Tutankhamen's wife was the daughter of the famous Queen Nefrititi!

There are paintings on the wall of the Coptic chapel of Christain saints..

The entrance to Alexander's chapel an dinscriptions and carvings on the walls, depicting Alexander as Pharoah

The ships dock very close to the temple and a walk at night with the ights shining on the temple is indeed a splendid sight.

The inscriptions on the walls of the chapels

Evenings in Luxor mean Tonga rides--or horse carraige rides.
Beware of the driversif you are negotiating with them yourself as they are quite capable of claiming that the price is in British pounds and not Egyptian pounds as you thought.
In fact everywhere do make sure you specify Egyptian pounds.
Our drver also tried the sam trick but we scolded im and he repented.
He wa however an intersting charcter who kept repeating that we were vey lucky to be with him as he would take us to a papyrus shop where the prices wee very low as there was no guide to act as a middleman and pocket half the profit. As he said today Mr. Hassle has died!

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